Würzburg

June 24-28

Würzburg was unexpectedly attractive, the weather was fine and we decided to stay longer. We spent four nights right by the very calm Main River, barges quietly passing, the ringing of distant church bells in our ears, food and drink available and a tram-stop right outside the door. This is wine country and there are grape vines all along the way, even on the hills right behind the station and the town.

Cruise boat passes our camping ground

Vines behind the station

The city is in the middle of Germany and as we approached, the number of train lines and trains increased markedly. Every couple of minutes a goods train (up to 40 wagons) would shoot past on the railway which was over the river from the cycle path. Every so often a local train broke the pattern and by the time we got to the city we saw a high speed train go by. We read subsequently that that there are 70 intercity or high-speed connections and 350 regular passenger trains daily. Let me assure you that the goods traffic far exceeds this number. 

In 1945, the whole of Würzburg, except 8 houses, was more-or-less destroyed by the Allies (16th March, 5000 dead, hardly a roof left, a ‘perfect' bombing raid, apparently). Since then, the city has been completely rebuilt, often in the original style, and important buildings have been restored. (Google has references with Then and Now pics). One of these is the UNESCO heritage site called The Residence (=a palace for the prince-bishops, built 1720-1744, finished 1780, Baroque). In these reconstructed or restored buildings there are often photos of the original 1945 mess in the rooms or corridors. Pretty moving. It was finally re-opened in 1987. There are damask silk wall coverings and a number of fine tapestries. Fantastic decoration, no photos allowed - but certainly worth an hour or two of your time. Most famous for the superb staircase with a huge unvaulted roof covered with frescoes, which become 3D at times when legs protrude over the edge!  The roofs in this area withstood the fire and were able to be reconstructed. The attached chapel is also totally amazing for its decoration. I didn’t see the 'No Photos' sign until too late.

The sister fortress on the hill, Marienberg, dating back to 1200, and having re-invented itself several times over the ensuing centuries, was similarly affected by the bombings and also restored.  This is where the museum of the history of the town, among other things, is housed. Complete with models of pre-war and post-war city -no photos allowed here either.

Also burned out in 1945 was the originally Romanesque church. Reconsecrated in 1967. However it had already seen a number of changes over its lifetime and since the rebuilding it has had another make-over, so we’re not quite sure what we are meant to admire there.

We walked the streets quite a bit and took the trams and buses, since we had all-day tickets. On the sunny days, lovely to sit outside with a coffee, or maybe a beer. The 1-euro shop, and others, sell an enormous range of useful things - no wonder that Germans find our country expensive when they are travelling. Eating out in ‘ordinary’ places is also much more affordable than Wellington.

One of the things we love about cycling is that you meet people and talk to them, sometimes en route - we took shelter from a shower with a husband and wife who will be in Australia for Christmas - sometimes in the camping ground, with other cyclists especially. The other night we were talking to the couple from Munich in the campervan nearest the tent section and they invited us to see the interior. And have a beer. During which time a tandem-cyclist from the other side of the ground came over to the camper and asked if they spoke English. She was clearly English, and I said 'I do’, whereupon she offered the campervanners a packet of prepacked salad, since they had a fridge. Conversation continued and eventually her partner came over. More conversation, more beer. A mixture of German and English took us through the evening and we all agreed the next day that we had really enjoyed the contact, each with the other. Quite special.

Below is a selection of photos:

Coming in to Würzburg 

Cruise boats go from the Black sea across Europe to Rotterdam - and shorter trips as well

City walk

The Dom

The cafe attached to the campsite: modest with excellent food.

A bookshop: we spent an entire rainy morning here on the computer. With coffee and a cake each. Plenty of places for people to sit and read - and they do.