Angers to Gennes

September 7th

Leaving Angers was really interesting, as the path took us through the old slate mines to Trélazé. Huge heaps of tailings, deep lakes where the slate had been mined from, and massive hunks of slate just lying around! 

We eventually reached the shores of the Loire again and rode along more levées, sharing with cars, but not too many. Although there were some stop banks built in the 12th century, the first levée in this area seems to date from the XIV century and the last section was put in place in 1830. These stop banks are usually 5-7 metres high and 7 metres wide, often reinforced by very neat stonework. They can be really impressive works - of art, or engineering, or both.

We spent some time at the priory of St Rémy la Varenne, which dates from the 10th century, when it was occupied by a religious order subsequently replaced by Benedictines. They were there until the 15th century, when it became 'privatised' but that also fell over with the revolution (too aristocratic) and the place was sold. It stayed in various private hands until 1988 when the Commune bought it, and for the last 20 years or so they have gradually been restoring it. 'Restoring' is always a call of 'to what?' but it is an interesting place to visit and there is still much to be done.

The camping ground at Gennes (7th) was superb, with a special area for bike travellers. We had a table AND a place to attach our bikes, right on the banks of the Loire. Fabulous site. The next morning we were treated to the hot-air balloon floating right over the camping ground and almost landing on the Loire, before pumping more hot air into the balloon and continuing on.