Sallèles d’Aude to Carcassonne

Retracing our way up the Canal de Jonction (joining the canal du Midi and the Canal de la Robine which goes through Narbonne to the sea) was short and easy and delightfully picturesque. There is a railway line leading nowhere which we followed for quite some time, and an adequate path. The bridge over the canal where it meets the Canal du Midi is something else, and we walked the bikes over that. Quite a lot like the Roman road.

The distance from there to Carcassonne is more than a day’s ride and there were no camping grounds mentioned except near Carcassonne but there are bed and breakfasts, so we weren’t too worried. The canal itself is very beautiful along that stretch, with some lovely bridges and aqueducts. Most of the aqueducts on the Canal du Midi were built under Vauban but three of them were Riquet’s, including one on this stretch. It’s so great to be using a canal bridge from 1676, which is not only still functional but beautiful as well.

The original accommodation house

Le Somail is a picturesque port, which we struck on a sunny day!  From the earliest days to the mid-19^th century it used to be an overnight stop for passengers from Toulouse to Agde, on the mail barge and there is still a bridge dating from then. The port has retained a sense of history, despite all the pleasure boats, and it has a pleasant atmosphere. Or was that just because it was sunny and we ate our lunch there? The overnight stop is now a guesthouse, though not cheap.

Scenery: grapes, grapes, grapes and more grapes…

As we realized that we would not reach a camping ground by nightfall, we were

at the spot where floodwaters are controlled by a series of flood-gates with a beautiful arched bridge as a bonus. By the bridge we met up with a couple about our age from Perth who had found a lovely camping spot to one side and were happy to share it. I shot off for some essential supplies in a nearby town and we spent a happy evening, sharing our food and drink and exchanging stories. A really good evening.

Next morning we went our separate ways to Carcassonne, on a reasonable track with unreasonable weather (= rain and cold).  We decided to call it quits and go to a budget hotel on the edge of Carcassonne – though I got a puncture several kilometres before we reached the hotel and we had to walk that bit, having used up my spare tube the day before. (Etap is now Budget Ibis, for those that this means something to.) It was a surprise but no surprise to meet our Perth companions, also sick of the cold and wet, at reception after we had stabled the bikes and unloaded our gear.

Bonus – there was a bike shop 100 metres from the hotel, where we replaced the tube and they also fixed the puncture (great when you’re cold, wet and tired) and checked the tyre.

Second bonus – the supermarket next door was huge and did very good meals for a reasonable price.